Anatomy-molded, fetishistic leather bodysuits were one runway signature of Alexander Mcqueen's that never quite made it to the retail floor. He did it most brilliantly (twice!) in his beautiful Spring 2005 show, It's Only a Game. Despite all the innocent pastel colors and merry-go-round motifs, this show had a strong undercurrent of sexual perversion and racial commentary, as McQueen was wont to do. Mariacarla Boscono and Erin Wasson took the stage as opposing knights on the human-sized chess board, complete with equine ponytails and horse bits at the mouth.
Imagine my surprise at the Gaultier exhibit when I came across a wall full of his kinkiest looks and spotted another anatomy-molded, fetishistic leather bodysuit with an equine vibe. Gaultier's dress looks less like his signature irreverent Gallic kink and more like what Gareth Pugh would do to McQueen's dress if Pugh had the chance, but the comparison is there nonetheless. Who worked the kinky leather better? My vote's on McQueen this round.